Baze za popunjavanje brazdi iliti Ridge Filler

Nedavno smno na Ani pričali o brazdama na noktima i kako se boriti sa njima. Pošto za najčešći vid brazdi leka nema, savet je da treba koristiti posebne baze za popunjavanje brazdi. Nažalost, izgleda da potražnja za njima u Srbiji nije dovoljna da nam ih uvoznici ponude kada ih već firma koju uvoze nudi (ahem, Essie i Catrice) ili da domaći proizvođači smatraju da treba da ih naprave (Aura, Galaxy, nadam se da se prepoznajete). No našlo se nekoliko izuzetaka o kojima bih danas želela da porazgovaramo.

We had a discussion recently at Ana forum about nail ridges and how to deal with them. Since there is no "cure" for the most common form of ridges, general advice is to use ridge filling base base coats. Unfortunately, it looks like there is no demand for them in Serbia so importers and distributors are not interested in getting them when the company they are dealing with has them in their range of products (Essie and Catrice come to mind), or our local manufacturers don't find interest in making one (that would be Aura and Galaxy). However, I could find several exceptions that I would like to write about today.

Izvin'te zbog golotinje, ali kako drugačije da vidite trenutno stanje?

Vertikalne brazde su prirodna posledica starenja, poput bora na koži. Kako nam organizam stari, tako matriks nokta počinje na određenim mestima da proizvodi manje ćelija, što se ogleda u mestimično tanjem noktu. Horizontalne brazde mogu nastati zbog traume (iliti udarca) ili drugih promena u organizmu (poput problema sa tiroidnom žlezdom, ekcema ili psorijaze) i ako ne znate uzrok nastanka svojih, dobro je da posetite lekara kako biste videli tačno šta se zbiva. Koji god vid brazdi da imate, ne treba turpijom da pokušavate da izravnate površinu nokta, jer ćete celu površinu stanjiti. Takođe ćete je verovatno dovesti do visokog sjaja, što će sprečiti da se lak dobro poveže sa noktom. Generalno nisam primetila da prisustvo brazdi utiče na nanošenje i trajanje laka sem na mat lakove, koji se ne mogu ispeglati nadlakom. To znači da mnogima baze za popunjavanje brazdi verovatno nisu potrebne, čak i ako imaju primetne brazde, ali neki lakovi se definitivno bolje nanose kada se cela površina nokta izravna na ovaj način. Ne samo mat lakovi, već i pastelni lakovi gušće konzistencije i verujem da bi neonci takođe bolje legli preko ovakve baze, bez obzira na to da li imate brazde ili ne.

Vertical ridges are a natural consequence of getting older, similar to lines on skine. As we age, nail matrix is starting to make fewer nail cells in certain spots, resulting in groves on nails. Horizontal ridges can be caused by trauma or some changes in your body (like thyroid problems, eczema or psoriasis) and if you don't know hat caused yours, it would be good to see a doctor. Whichever type you have, you shouldn't buff them out because that will thin the entire surface of the nail. You will also probably make the nail smoother, which will prevent nail polish from bonding well. I haven't noticed that ridges affect application and durability of nail polish, except matte polishes, that can't be evened out with a layer of top coat. That means that many of yu probably won't need ridge fillers, but some polishes apply better over nails that have been evened out this way. Not only matte polishes, but pastel polishes that have thicker formula, and I am certain neon polishes would benefit from application over a ridge filler, regardless of the presence of ridges.

Trenutno se na našem tržištu, koliko sam mogla da vidim, može naći samo pet baza koje zaglađuju površinu nokta, od kojih ja imam četiri (Mavala je peta). Cene se kreću od 289 dinara za Trend It Up, preko 325 za Golden Rose do skoro 1000 dinara za Mavalu, 1100 dinara za Zoya i 1300 dinara za OPI. Meni su brazde upadljivije na srednjem i domalom prstu nego na malom prstu i kažiprstu. Zato sam svaku bazu nanosila na kažiprst i na srednji prst, dok sam domali i mali prst ostavila nenamazane kako biste videli razliku i na plitkim i na brazdama srednje dubine.

From what I could see, you can find only five ridge-filling base coats in Serbia, and I have four of them (with Mavala being the fifth). Their prices range from €2.5 for Trend It Up to €3 for Golden Rose to €8.5 for Mavala, €10 for Zoya and €11 for OPI. I have shallow groves on my pinkie and index finger nails and medium-depth groves on my middle and ring finger nails. That is why I applied each base on index finger and middle finger, while leaving ring finger and pinkie naked so that you can see the difference in application over shallow and medium-depth ridges better.

Golden Rose Smoothing Base je baza koju sam uzela nadajući se da je u pitanju zamena za Golden Rose No More Ridges & Yellow. To nažalost nije slučaj. Dobra je ako imate veoma blage brazde. Iako deluje prilično puno, skoro gusto, neće popuniti srednje ili dublje brazde, ali će ih donekle zagladiti, dajući malo ujednačeniju površinu za mazanje laka. S obzirom na to da je neutralno ružičaste boje, može se nositi i sama, za gladak, zdrav izgled noktiju.

I bought Golden Rose Smoothing Base hoping that it would be a substitute for Golden Rose No More Ridges & Yellow. Unfortunately, that was not the case. It is good if you have very shallow groves. Even though it looks full, even thick, it won't fill medium or deeper groves, but it will smooth out the surface somewhat. Considering it is neutral pink, it can be worn on its own, for smoother, healthy looking natural look.

OPI Ridge Filler deluje zastrašujuće belo u bočici i još strašnije na noktima, posebno ako su vam brazde dublje, jer će se deblji slojevi (kao u brazdama) beleti više. Ovo je gusta baza koja dobro popunjava brazde, ali se malo sleže tokom sušenja tako da će, ako imate dublje brazde, možda biti potrebno da nanesete dva sloja. Sama po sebi, ova baza nije glatka, te lak može malo zapinjati tokom nanošenja, ali će biti dobro povezan.

OPI Ridge Filler looks frighteningly white in the bottle, and even scarier on nails, especially if you have deeper groves, because thicker layers (as they would be in groves) would look whiter. This is a thick base that fills in ridges well, but it does set somewhat as it dries. If you have deeper ridges, you may need two coats. On its own, this base is not smooth, so polish can apply less smoothely over it, but it will bond well.

Trend It Up Perfect Ridgefiller je prijatno iznenađenje. Dovoljno je gusta da fino popuni nepravilnosti na mojim noktima i uz to je samoravnajuća, dakle daje glatku površinu za lak. Breskvaste je boje, ali je prozračna i, poput Golden Rose, može da se nosi i sama za prirodan izgled noktiju. Jedina zamerka koju imam je drška četkice, koja zbog dužine nije najugodnija u ruci. Lak se divno nanosi preko ove baze, ali se za nju ne vezuje najbolje.

Trend It Up Perfect Ridgefiller is a pleasant surprise. It is thick enogh to fill in imperfections on my nails and it is self-levelling, giving a very smooth surface to apply polish over. It is peachy, but sheer, and like Golden Rose one it can be worn on its own for a natural look. I am not a fan of brush handle, which is not the easiest to hold due to its length. Polish applies wonderfully over it, but it does not bond as well as over some other base coats.

Zoya Get Even u bočici izgleda kao OPI baza, ali slabijeg popunjavajućeg efekta. Retka je i ne popunjava moje brazde, koje nisu preterano izražene. Pošto je koštano bela, ne bih preporučila da je nosite samu, posebno ako imate dublje brazde. Poput OPI baze, lak se nanosi malo teže preko nje, ali jednom kada ga namažete, možete biti sigurni da će biti postojan.

In the bottle, Zoya Get Even looks like OPI Ridge Filler, but it is not filling out ridges as well. It is rather thin and does not cover even my more shallow groves. Since it is bone-white, I would not advise you wear it on its own, especially if you have deeper groves. Like OPI Ridge Filler, Zoya creates somewhat stickier surface, making the application a bit more difficult, but once you have that polish on, you can rest assured it will stay that way.

Kako bih bolje testirala i uporedila sve četiri baze, posegnula sam za lakom najgore formule koji imam - Essie Coat Couture. Kao što sa slike možete videti, najbolje je legao preko Trend It Up baze, ali preko sve četiri se mazao daleko bolje nego sam po sebi ili preko bilo koje druge baze preko koje sam pokušala da ga mažem. Normalno su mi potrebna tri sloja, ali čak i tada površina bude neravna ili boja neujednačena. Ovde imam samo dva sloja preko svake od ovih baza. Pokušala sam da uradim i test postojanosti, ali već pred kraj drugog dana je počeo da se upadljivo guli sa ivica na kažiprstu (Golden Rose) i srednjem prstu (Trend It Up), jedva vidljivo se izlizao sa domalog prsta (OPI), dok se na malom prstu (Zoya) nije videla nikakva razlika.

In order to better test and compare these four ridge fillers, I reached for the worst formula polish in my stash - Essie Coat Couture. As you can see from the photo, it applied best over Trend It Up base, but it went on over all four far better than without base coat or over any regular base coat that I tried before. Normally it takes three coats and is still bumpy or patchy, but here we have only two coats over each ridge filler. I tried to do a wear test, but towards the end of day two I had visible chipping on my index finger (Golden Rose) and middle finger (Trend It Up), there was minimal wear at the tip of my ring finger (OPI) and none on my pinkie (Zoya).