Alat za oblikovanje noktiju

Davno sam ovlaš prešla preko oblikovanja noktiju i turpija koje koristim ali kako se ponuda u našoj zemlji poboljšala, a i kako se moje znanje o ovoj oblasti povećalo mislim da je red da detaljnije predstavim različite alatke koje se koriste za skraćivanje i oblikovanje noktiju. Imajte na umu da ovo pišem na osnovu ličnog iskustva, što znači da neće nužno odgovarati svima, mada ću se truditi da pokrijem što više različitih mogućnosti. Ukoliko vi imate drugačije savete, predloge, iskustva, slobodno ih podelite u komentarima.

It's been quite some time since I have briefly covered nail shaping and nail files I use, but since we now have better offer of nail shaping tools and I also know a bit more about the topic I thought I might revisit the topic and present different tools you can use for shortening and shaping your nails a bit better. Please, bear in mind that I write this from my own experience and that it doesn't necessarily mean that what works for me will work for everyone, but I'll do my best to cover as many possibilities. If you have different experiences, advice, thoughts, do share them in the comments.

papirne turpije različitih finoća

Kada i kako?
Nokte treba skraćivati i oblikovati kada su suvi. Mokri nokti, posebno posle tople kupke, mogu biti lakši za obradu, ali voda takođe menja oblik noktiju, opušta ih, širi, spušta svod nokta, što sve znači da nokti oblikovani kada su mokri neće imati isti oblik kada se osuše. Ovo je posebno važno ljudima koji poput mene imaju nokte nepravilnog oblika, nokte koji se krive na jednu stranu, lepezaste nokte...
Otkad sam pročitala da neke devojke nokte skraćuju dok su namazani i sama to radim. Ivica i oblik nokta su vidljiviji ako su nokti nalakirani, ali imajte na umu da će lak ostaviti trag na turpiji koju koristite. Ukoliko možete lepo da oblikujete nokte kada su bez laka, samo napred. Tako možete odmah preći i na zapečaćivanje nokta.
Više puta ste pročitale da ne treba turpijati levo-desno već da nokte treba turpijati samo u jednom smeru. Ovo svakako važi ako imate nežne nokte, ali meni se pokazalo da je svejedno da li testerišem ili turpijam u jednom smeru. Važno je samo voditi računa o kvalitetu noktiju i finoći turpije. Takođe je dobar savet da nokte turpijate od ivice ka sredini nokta, posebno ako želite da postignete špicast ili zaobljen oblik.
Pošto posle turpijanja neretko ispod slobodne ivice nokta ostanu "opiljci" njih treba ukloniti nežnom turpijom, a potom istom turpijom treba zapečatiti slobodnu ivicu nokta. Dovoljno je da prvo turpiju prevučete pod uglom od četrdeset pet stepeni s donje strane nokta, a potom da učinite isto sa gornje strane nokta naniže, ali dodirujući samo ivicu nokta.

When and how?
Nails should be shortened and shaped when they are dry. Wet nails, especially after a warm soak, may be easier to work, but water changes shape of nails, it relaxes them, widens them, lowers the C-curve, which means that nails that are shaped wet won't have the same shape once they dry. This is especially important to people who, like myself, have irregularly shaped nails, nails that lean to one side, fan-shaped nails...
Ever since I've read that some girls file they nails when they are painted I do that too. Free edge and shape of nails are more visible when they are painted, but keep in mind that nail polish may leave residue on your file. If you can shape your bare nails nicely, do it. That way you can immediately skip to sealing the plate.
You must have read many times that you shouldn't file your nails in sawing motion, but that you should only file in one direction. This is certainly true if you have soft and gentle nails, but to me it makes no difference if I saw away or file in single direction. It is only important to use proper grit for your nails. A good advice is also to file from one side to the middle of your nail and from other side to the middle, especially if you are going for rounded or pointy shape.
After filing you may end up with nail "shavings" on the underside of nails. They can be removed with fine grit nail file, and the same nail file can be used for sealing the nail plate. You can simply drag the file underneath the nail at 45 degree angle and repeat the motion from the upper side of nail, but touching only the free edge.

moj omiljeni alat:
bezimena 400/4000
Crisnail 240/800/3000
Trind Flexi File
Crisnail 180/180
CND Koala (240/400)
Mont Bleu BC-M08
Titania 1049/5
Sholl's grickalica

Čime?
Razni se alati koriste za skraćivanje i oblikovanje noktiju. Neki od njih su hvaljeni i prihvaćeni, neki su omraženi, ali i dalje rasprostranjeni, neki nedovoljno poznati. Grubo se mogu podeliti an sečiva i turpije. Kada je reč o sečivima, važno je da su oštra i precizna. Za turpije je važno da finoća odgovara stanju noktiju i potrebi za koju se koristi. Finoća je označena brojem i manji brojevi znače manju finoću. Za skraćivanje zdravih čvrstih noktiju je dovoljna finoća 180-240, za tanke meke nokte je bolje da bude preko 300. Za uklanjanje brazdi i razlistalih delova nokta ne treba koristiti turpije grublje od granulacije 400. Za izvlačenje žutila iz nokta bih se držala finoće 600. Moje omiljene alatke su Sholl's grickalica za nokte za drastično skraćivanje, Crisnail 180/180 za skraćivanje, Mont Bleu BC-M08 staklena turpija, Trind Flexi File, CND Koala (240/400), Crisnail 240/800/3000 i bezimena 400/4000 za oblikovanje.

What to use?
There are different tools available for nail shortening and shaping. Some of them are accepted and praised, some are disliked, but still widespread, some are not known well enough. They can roughly be separated into blades and files. When it comes to blades, the most important bit is that they should be sharp and precise. For files the most important is the relation between the grit strength and state of nails and purpose. Grit strength is marked by number and the lower the number the rougher the file is. Grit strength 180-240 is good enough for shortening strong healthy nails and 300 and higher are good for soft and thin nails. I wouldn't use grit lower than 400 for buffing out ridges and peels, and I'd stick with 600 grit for taking out stains. My favourite tools are Sholl's nail clipper for drastic length reduction, Crisnail 180/180 for regular filing, Mont Bleu BC-M08 glass nail file, Trind Flexi File, CND Koala (240/400), Crisnail 240/800/3000 and noname 400/4000 for shaping.

Grickalice, cangle i makaze
Metalna sečiva su najbrži način da se nokti znatno skrate. Sama im pribegavam kada mi je potrebno da brzo i jednostavno potpuno skratim sve nokte (recimo kada mi nokat pukne ili se zacepi veoma nisko ili pred odlazak na kuglanje). Ne treba bežati od metalnih alatki ako imate zdrave nokte, samo ih treba pažljivo koristiti. To znači da treba ustanoviti koji tip sečiva vam najviše odgovara (grickalice i klješta su bolja za čvrste ili debele nokte, a makazice za tanke ili meke), naći dobru veličinu sečiva spram veličine noktiju, treba se postarati da je sečivo veoma oštro (tupo sečivo će pre pokidati nego glatko iseći nokat) i treba praviti kratke rezove, ne seći izjedna. Nemojte ih koristiti ako vam se nokti listaju. Nikada nisam uspela da sečivom oblikujem nokte, tako da uvek sečem manje nego što je potrebno, a kasnije turpijama doterujem i dužinu i oblik.

Clippers, nippers and scissors
Metal blades are the fastest means to take down the length. I use them when I need to easily shorten my nails to nubbins (eg. when my nail breaks below free edge or before bowling). You shouldn't avoid metal blades if you have healthy nails, but you should use them carefully. You should find which sort of blade suits you best (nippers and clipper work better with strong, firm nails, scissors with soft and thin nails). You have to find a good blade length, make sure it is very sharp (Dull blade will rip nail rather than cut it) and you should make short cuts. Don't use blades if you have peeling nails. I can't shape my nails with blades so I always cut less then I need so I could later file them to desired length and shape.

na metalnim turpijama mi najpre stradaju drške
my metal files lose their handles first

Metalne i safirne turpije
Metalnih turpija ima raznih i mada su uglavnom neupotrebljive ili čak štetne za nokte ima i onih koje su veoma dobre te nisam sklona da apriori odbacujem ovaj tip turpije. Najveći problem sa metalnim turpijama je što na njima ne postoji oznaka finoće granulacije i neretko su suviše grube čak i za zdrave čvrste nokte. Mnoge metalne turpije nemaju klasičnu zrnastu granulaciju već metalnu mrežu ili ravne metalne zupce. Takve turpije su mi uvek bile neupotrebljive i ne znam da je iko u mojoj okolini ikada takvom turpijom uspeo da skrati nokte. Metalne turpije sa zrnastom površinom sam viđala u dva tipa - one sa urezanim udubljenjima, koje su mi podjednako beskorisne, i one sa pravom ispupčenom granulacijom, koje ponekada imaju na sebi sloj korunda. Te sa korundom se nazivaju safirnim turpijama i veoma su oštre i trajne. Takvu turpiju koristim već dosta dugo, ali samo za skraćivanje noktiju i sužavanje ivica. Turpija koju imam (Titania 1049/5) nije ravna već zaobljene površine i njome mi je veoma lako da oblikujem ivice i saniram zacepljenja. Moja je procena da ova konkretna turpija ima granulaciju oko 240, što mogu sebi da dozvolim da koristim, ali nikako ne savetujem onima sa tankim, mekim ili slabim noktima da koriste metalne ni safirne turpije već da potraže neko nežnije rešenje za svoje nokte. Osobe sa čvrstim i zdravim noktima prema mom iskustvu mogu komotno da koriste safirne turpije, ali samo za skraćivanje.

Metal and sapphire nail files
There are many sorts of metal nail files and, while most of them are unusable or even damaging to the nails, there are some that are really good so I wouldn't reject this sort of nail file a priori. The biggest issue with metal nail files is that they don't have grit strength marked and they are often too rough even for strong nails. Many of them don't have grainy surface but rather a lattice or straight lines of ridges and valleys. I have always found these files unusable and I don't know anyone who managed to use them to shorten nails successfully. I have seen two sorts of grainy-surfaced metal nail files - ones with etched indentations, which I find equally useless as the former ones, and those with elevated grains, which sometimes have a layer of corundum. The corundum ones are called sapphire files and they are very sharp and durable. I have been using one such file for a very long time, but only to shorten nails and straighten edges. The one I have (Titania 1049/5) is not flat but rounded and I find it very convenient for shaping edges of my nails and taking care of splits. My estimate is that this file has grit strength of about 240, which I can allow myself to use, but I wouldn't advise people with thin, soft or week nails to use metal or sapphire nail files, but to look for a gentler instrument. In my experience people with healthy strong nails can use sapphire files, but only to shorten nails.

Staklene, kristalne i keramičke turpije
Ove turpije su spram metalnih i papirnih relativno nova kategorija u ponudi, ali veoma brzo su stekle veliku popularnost jer su nežnije prema noktima zbog svoje finije granulacije. Iskreno, isprva sam ih smatrala precenjenim i nepotrebnim proizvodom, ali posle iskustva sa tri različite staklene turpije spremam se da nabavim još koju. Generalna zamerka na ove turpije je što su uglavnom obe strane turpije iste finoće i što finoća nije označena na njima. Sve staklene turpije nisu iste finoće, ali sve koje imam su suviše fine za ozbiljno skraćivanje noktiju. Verujem da bi bile savršene za nežnije nokte. Postoje dve verzije staklenih turpija - one sa urezanom granulacijom i one sa abrazivnim slojem dodatim naknadno na staklenu površinu. Prvi tip je trajan, dok se drugi tip veoma brzo istroši, brže čak i od papirne turpije. Na žalost, veoma je teško samo na oko proceniti kom tipu pripada turpija tako da je najbolje osloniti se na proverene proizvođače. Kristalne turpije su čvršće i izdržljivije od običnih staklenih turpija, ali nisu nužno napravljene od kristala već od kaljenog stakla. Nisam sigurna da keramičkih turpija ima kod nas, ali i one važe za veoma čvrste, izdrljive, trajne i nežne. I staklene i keramičke turpije imaju manu što su lomljive te nije loše birati one koje imaju zaštitnu kutiju. Valja ih oprati posle svake upotrebe, a prednost im je što se mogu bezbedno dezinfikovati.

Glass, crystal and ceramic files
Compared to metal and paper nail files, these are relatively new category, but they have gained quite a following due to the fact that they are gentle to nails. To be hones, I have thought them to be overrated and unnecessary, but after I have tried three different glass nail files I am ready to get several more. One complaint is that these files usually have the same grit strength on both sides and that the grit isn't marked. All glass files don't have the same grit strength, but all that I have tried are too gentle to be used for taking down the length. I believe they are perfect for softer, gentler nails. There are two sorts of glass files - with etched grain and with sprayed on/glued on grit. Former ones are durable, while the grit from the latter ones is easily worn out, even faster than some paper nail files. Unfortunately it is difficult to tell which sort of glass file you are looking at so it is best to stick to the well known manufacturers. Crystal nail files are harder and more durable than glass files, but aren't necessarily made of crystal but of tempered glass. I am unsure if there are ceramic nail files on Serbian market, but those are also regarded as very heavy duty, durable yet gentle nail files. Both glass and ceramic nail files are breakable so picking the ones with protective case wouldn't be a bad idea. These should be washed after every use and what's particularly good about them is that they can safely be disinfected.

Papirne i kartonske turpije
Papirne turpije su najjeftiniji i najdostupniji izbor i za skraćivanje i za oblikovanje noktiju. Proizvode se u širokom spektru veličina, finoća, oblika i dezena. Na žalost, na turpijama koje se mogu naći u širokoj prodaji veoma retko je naznačena finoća, ali na turpijama namenjenim za profesionalnu upotrebu finoća obično piše ili na samoj turpiji ili na pakovanju ili u katalogu proizvođača. Ne očajavajte ako ste greškom kupile pregrubu turpiju. Dovoljno je protrljati grubu stranu turpije drugom turpijom i ona će izgubiti znatan deo svoje oštrine. Nisam ljubitelj skroz tankih kartonskih turpija, mada su one odličan izbor za salone jer su predviđene za jednokratnu upotrebu. Takođe nisam ljubitelj sunđerastih ili višestranih turpija jer su mi uglavnom nezgodne za držanje ili imaju premalu upotrebljivu površinu. Favorit su mi dvostrane turpije plastičnog ili majlarnog jezgra. One su dovoljno elastične da omogućavaju laku i brzu upotrebu i dovoljno tanke da se lepo mogu držati u ruci.

Paper and cardboard files
Paper nail files are the least expensive and the most widespread means to shorten and shape nails. They come in wide range of sizes, grit strengths, shapes and designs. Unfortunately, most of these don't have clearly marked grit strength, but those that are meant fro professional use have the strength marked either on nail file itself or in manufacturer's catalogue. Don't despair if you have bought too rough a file. You can rub it against another file and it will become a lot finer. I am not a fan of emery boards, although they are great for salons because they are meant for single use only. I am also not a fan of spongy files or multi-sided files as I find them difficult to hold or they have too small surface I can use. My favourite ones are those with plastic or mylar core. I find them elastic enough for smooth use and thin enough for a good grip.

Polirke
Polirke spadaju među papirne turpije, ali mislim da zaslužuju poseban odeljak jer njihova uloga nije skraćivanje ni oblikovanje nokta već uglačavanje površine nokta, uklanjanje prirodnih brazdi na noktu i zapečaćivanje slobodne ivice nokta. Koriste se za skidanje razlistanih delova nokta bez gubljenja dužine. Korisne su i za uklanjanje opiljaka sa donje strane nokta, kao i za izvlačenje žutila i fleka od laka. Ove turpije ne treba koristiti prečesto na nokatnoj ploči, ali ih ne treba ni izbegavati. Ukoliko često koristite manje finu turpiju možete stanjiti i oslabiti površinu nokta. Ukoliko ispolirate nokat do visokog sjaja lak vam neće stajati dugo. Neretko višestrane papirne turpije sadrže i stranu za poliranje noktiju, ali često se polirke mogu kupiti i zasebno, bilo u obliku klasične turpije bilo u vidu bloka. Pod polirkama se uglavnom smatraju turpije granulacije od 400 naviše.

Buffing nail files
Buffing nail files are also paper files, but I think they deserve a special section because they aren't used for taking down the length or for shaping, but for smoothing out nail plate, evening out ridges and sealing the nail plate. They are also used for buffing out nail peels without loosing nail length. They are great for nail beveling and also for taking out stains from nail plate. They shouldn't be used too often on nail plate, but they also needn't be avoided. If you use buffing file of higher grit too often you may weaken nail plate. If you use too fine a grit to achieve high shine your polish won't last as long. Multi.sided nail files often have at least one buffing side, bit buffing files can also be bought on their own, either as regular files or as buffing blocks. Nail files of 400+ grit strength are often considered to be buffing files.