Zanoktica, zanoktica i zanoktica

1. prava zanoktica/true cuticle
2. eponihijum/eponychium
3. pokidana koža/split skin/hangnail
4. tvrde zanoktice/hangnails

Imam potrebu da i sebi i vama, čitaocima, ukažem na nelogičnu upotrebu istog izraza za četiri povezana pojma usled koje može doći do višestrukih zabuna. Pričamo o suvim ili ispucalim zanokticama, o tome kako zanoktice ne treba seći, o nezi zanoktica, o omekšavanju zanoktica, o uklanjanju zanoktica ne razmišljajući o tome da koristimo isti izraz da opišemo različite, ali bliske pojmove, koji se nikako ne smeju tretirati na isti način. Primetićete da sam napisala "četiri povezana pojma", a pisaću samo o tri. Četvrti pojam je medicinski termin koji se odnosi na upalu kože oko nokta (guglajte paronychia na sopstvenu odgovornost) o kome ne mogu da pišem.

This article may not be of interest to my foreign readers as it is related to the confusing use of the same word in Serbian language to describe four closely connected items. We use the same word (zanoktica) when we talk about true cuticle, eponychium, hangnails/agnails and paronychia (google it at your own risk). It is not dissimilar to the use of word "cuticle" to describe both true cuticle and eponychium, but it has gone further. You are welcome to read it if you want to remind yourself what is true cuticle, what is eponychium and what is hangnail.

Prava zanoktica, kutikula, tanak je sloj mrtve kože koji pokriva nokatnu ploču od eponihijuma i pruža se sa noktom kako nokat raste. Njena je uloga da zapečati pristup korenu nokta, na taj način ga štiteći od infekcija. Obično je jedva vidljiva, a kada se odvoji od nokta postaja upadljiva i bela. Ovo je zanoktica na koju se misli kada se priča o uklanjanju zanoktice hemijskim ili mehaničkim sredstvima. Postojanje prave zanoktice na noktu može da omete nanošenje laka ili da skrati njegovo trajanje i zato je valja uklanjati, ali nežno i samo sa vidljivog dela nokatne ploče. Nikako ne treba štapić ili potiskivač gurati pod kožu kod korena nokta. Pre nego što počnete da gurate zanoktice treba da ih omekšate toplom kupkom ili posebnim sredstvom za omekšavanje ili uklanjanje zanoktica. Delotvorna sredstva za uklanjanje zanoktica sadrže ili alfa hidroksilne kiseline ili kalijum hidroksid, ali ovo su agresivna sredstva koja omekšavaju i nokat te stoga treba pažljivo pratiti uputstvo, ne treba ih držati duže od preporučenog vremene i obavezno ih treba oprati po završetku tretmana. Takođe ne treba biti grub i koristiti oštre predmete jer se tako može oštetiti nokat.

True cuticle is a thin layer of dead skin that covers nail plate from eponychium and grows with the nail. Its role is to prevent access to nail matrix and nail root, protecting them from infections. Usually it is barely visible and when it gets separated from the nail it becomes quite visible and white. This is the cuticle we think of when we talk about cuticle removal either with chemical solutions or mechanical implements. True cuticle can make nail polish application difficult or shorten nail polish wear time which is why it should be removed, but it should be done gently and only from visible part of the nail. You shouldn't put cuticle pushers underneath the skin at lunula. Before you push the cuticle back you should soften it with warm soak or cuticle softener or cuticle remover. Efficient cuticle removers contain either alpha hydroxy acids or potassium hydroxide, but these are aggressive chemicals and they soften the nail plate so it is important to follow manufactures' instructions, not keep them on longer than recommended and you should wash them off after removing cuticles. Also you shouldn't use too much force or sharp tools because you can damage your nails.

Zanoktica na koju se ja najčešće žalim je zapravo eponihijum (eponychium) - živa koža koja pokriva podnožje nokta. Ovo je zanoktica koja može biti isušena, koja puca, koju treba masirati i hidrirati da bi nokat ispod bio jači i zdraviji i to je zanoktica koju ne treba uklanjati. Pošto je ovo živ sloj kože, a koža odumire i suši se, najbolje je truditi se da ova zanoktica bude uvek hidrirana, a izumrle ćelije se mogu skinuti pilingom ili sredstvom za uklanjanje zanoktica. Kada se zacepi možete iseći oštrim makazicama ili canglama zacepljeni deo, ali ne valja je seći u potpunosti jer ovo je zanoktica koja u kombinaciji sa pravom zanokticom stvara zaštitni sloj koji čuva koren nokta od infekcija.

Eponychium is the "cuticle" I complain about the most. This is living skin that at the base of the nail. This is the "cuticle" that gets dry, that splits, that should be massaged and hydrated so that the nail beneath it would grow stronger and healthier and this is the "cuticle" that shouldn't be removed. Since this is a living piece of skin, and skin gets dry and it sheds, it is best to take care to keep it well hydrated. Dry and dead skin cells can easily be removed either by some exfoliant or by cuticle remover. You can cut torn pieces with clippers, scissors or nippers, but you shouldn't cut entire eponychium because with true cuticle it creates the protective seal that keeps infections away from nail root.

Treća zanoktica koju povremeno spominjem je zacepljeno parče kože između nokta i bočnih stranica. Stvara se uglavnom zbog suvoće noktiju i/ili okolne kože. Tvrda je i više podseća na zacepljeno parče nokta nego na parče kože. I ovu zanokticu treba pažljivo ukloniti kada se javi jer u suprotnom može da se zakači za odeću ili kosu i da se pokida, stvarajući ranu u okolnom tkivu. Za uklanjanje se koriste oštre makazice ili cangle, nikako zubi ili nokti. Naravno, uvek je bolje sprečiti njen nastanak i hidrirati nokte i kožu oko njih.

The third "zanoktica" in Serbian is one form of hangnail/agnail - a split piece of skin between the nail and lateral folds. It is probably due to dryness of nails or surrounding skin. It is hard and resembles a torn nail rather than torn skin. It should carefully be removed because otherwise it can catch on clothes or hair and get really torn, wounding surrounding tissue. You should use sharp scissors or nippers to remove it, not teeth or nails. As always it is better to prevent it from happening and keep nails and skin well hydrated.