Popravka zacepljenog nokta

Već neko vreme sam želela da pokažem kako se snalazim kada mi se nokat zacepi, ali na svu sreću to mi se dugo nije desilo ili mi se nokat zacepljivao na mestu gde mi je lakše da ga skratim nego da ga popravljam. No sada mi je nokat na palcu napukao na živom delu, što može biti veoma bolno, ali savršeno za ovu demonstraciju. Sigurno svi znate za metod sa filter papirom (kesicom od čaja) i ovo što ja radim je veoma slično, ali umesto filter papira zahteva trake od fiberglasa. Potreban mi je i superlepak, makaze, štapić za manikir i turpije.

I've wanted to do a post about what I do when I get a split in my nail, but fortunately it's been some time since this has happened to me or it would happen in a place where it is easier for me to take down the length. But recently I got quite a bad split on my thumb nail below free edge, which can be painful, but is perfect for this demo. You probably all know about tea bag method and what I do is very similar, but instead of tea bag I use fiberglass strips. I also need superglue, manicure stick, scissors and nail files.

Ovde možete videti kako mi se nokat zalomio. Nokti su mi bili sveže manazani u momentu kada sam ga zacepila i moram reći da mi se nije skidao Dance Legend koji sam stavila. Uz dobar nadlak (Cult Nails Wicked Fast) nisam imala problema sa zakačinjanjem, ali svakako sam morala u nekom trenutku da se pozabavim ovim problemom. Prvo sam morala da skinem lak. Trudila sam se što je moguće bolje da mi se on ne zavuče u pukotinu. Nisam sasvim uspela u tome, ali pošto će mi nokti ionako biti namazani to meni ne predstavlja problem. Dakle, popravku počinjemo sa čistom osnovom. Možete blago isturpijati površinu nokta kako bi se lepak bolje vezao, ali ja volim posle otprilike nedelju dana da skinem zakrpu i po potrebi ponovim proces, tako da ne turpijam nokatnu ploču.

You can see the split I have here. My nails were freshly painted when it happened and I have to say I didn't want to remove the Dance Legend I wore. I didn't have any issues with snags thanks to a good top coat (Cult Nails Wicked Fast), but I had to deal with this issue at some point. First I had to remove the polish. I tried hard not to get any polish in the split, but I didn't quite make it. Fortunately I don't mind that much because I intended to keep my nails painted anyhow. The point is, we start with clean surface. You can buff your nail a bit if you want to get better grip, but I like to remove my patch after about a week and repeat the process if needed, so I don't buff my nails.

Trake od fiberglasa se koriste za ojačavanje i popravljanje prirodnih noktiju. Kod nas se prodaju na mestima koja drže opremu za salone (Nail Line, Ultra Sun, Unitech). Postoje u dve verzije - kao duge trake koje možete seći po potrebi i u vidu već isečenih presvlaka za nokte. I jedne i druge obično imaju lepak sa jedne strane kako bi se lako postavile na nokat. Moj izbor je traka koju sama mogu da sečem. Zašto traka a ne filter papir? Trake su tkane i lakše se prilagođavaju krivinama prirodnog nokta, što nije uvek slučaj sa filter papirom. Takođe propuštaju mnogo više lepka i zbog toga cela površina ostaje tanja i zahteva manje turpijanja kako bi se krpljeni deo izjednačio sa prirodnim noktom. Za popravku volim da prekrijem ceo nokat, a ne samo zacepljeni deo, za šta mi je filter papir nedovoljno fleksibilan. Fiberglas postaje skoro sasvim bezbojan te daje prilično prirodan izgled noktu, što znači da ne morate nužno da popravku kamuflirate lakom.

Fiberglass overlays are used to fix and strengthen natural nails. They are available in pre-cut wraps or as long strips you can cut and shape as you like. Both versions usually have some sort of adhesive on one side that helps securing them on nail. My choice is long strip. Why do I prefer fiberglass to tea bag? Fiberglass strips are woven and they adjust to curves of nails much better than filter paper. They also let much more glue pass through them, keeping the entire surface much thinner and needing less filing in order to even out the surface. I also prefer to cover my entire nail, not just the split, and filter paper is too inflexible for that. Fiberglass turns clear once you glue it on, which gives more natural look and you don't need to paint over it to cover it up.

Traku treba iseći prema obliku nokta, što ja očigledno nisam uradila. Nije greška ako to ne učinite, ali je lakše ako ne morate naknadno da je sečete. Veoma je važno ne dodirivati traku prstima jer je tkanje retko i lako se može poremetiti, a može se i zaprljati. Umesto prstiju za skidanje trake sa papira i nameštanje na nokat možete koristiti parče lepljive trake (ja sam koristila izolirku, a na kraju članka imate video koji pokazuje još jedan kreativan način). Namestite traku skoro uz eponihijum, ali ostavite malo prostora. Pazite da trakom u potpunosti pokrijete zacepljeni deo, a ako vam je kao meni sa bočne strane slobodno pustite traku da pređe malo preko ivice (ja sam ostavila oko 1 mm trake preko bočne ivice). Nanesite malu količinu superlepka preko trake i štapićem ga rasporedite tanko po noktu, pazeći da vam se ne slije u zanoktice. Podvrnite višak trake sa strane tako da potpuno obuhvata rascep na noktu. Pustite lepak da se dobro osuši. Možete koristiti lepak za nokte, ali i on je po sastavu cijanoakrilat, tj superlepak.

You should cut the wrap to fit your nail, which I obviously haven't done. It isn't a mistake if you don't do it, but it is easier to do if before than to cut excess afterwards. It is important not to touch the fiberglass with your fingers because you can disrupt the weave and get it dirty. Use sticky tape instead to peel the fiberglass of backing and to place it on the nail (I have used insulating tape and at the end of this article you can find a clip that shows another creative method). Place the strip on your nail nearly up to the eponychium, but leaving some space between them. Make sure that the wrap is covering entire split and if you have split on a side, like I do, let the wrap come a bit over the edge (I have left about 1 mm). Apply just a small amount of superglue over the wrap and use manicure stick to spread it over entire nail, making sure not to get it into cuticle area. Fold the strip you have left on the side so that the entire split is enveloped. Let the glue dry. You can use nail glue instead, but it is also cyanoacrylate, same as superglue.

Ukoliko želite da potpuno sakrijete traku dodajte još jedan sloj lepka. Moji nokti su suviše elastični i debeli slojevi lepka mi pucaju na noktima te kod mene možete nazreti tkanje. Kada se lepak u potpunosti osuši isecite višak trake. Ukoliko ste prekrivali ceo nokat treba samo malo da ispolirate zakrpu, vodeći računa da je ne preturpijate. Proverite da li su sve površine glatke i gotovi ste. Ovakve zakrpe se bezbedno skidaju folija metodom. Nemojte ih turpijati niti guliti sa noktiju. Samo natopite vatu acetonom, stavite na nokat, umotajte u staniol i sačekajte pet-deset minuta. Ukoliko se za to vreme ne odvoji u potpunosti samo ponovite postupak sa vatom i folijom. Ovako popravljen nokat može da stoji i do četiri nedelje ukoliko ne lakirate nokte često, odnosno ukoliko ne skidate lak često.

If you want to completely disguise the wrap add another coat of glue. My nails are too elastic and thick coat of glue would crack, so I decided to stop at only one coat of glue and you can still see the weave of fiberglass strip. When glue is completely dry cut the excess fiberglass. If you did a full nail overlay you can just buff the patch a bit, making sure not to overbuff it. Check if all the surfaces are smooth and you're done. This patch can be safely removed with foil. Don't file or pick it off. Just soak a piece of cotton wool with acetone, place it on the nail, wrap in aluminum foil and wait for 5-10 minutes. If it doesn't come of entirely just redo the foil process. The patch can hold on for up to four weeks unless you paint your nail often, actually if you don't use remover very often.