Ulja za nokte i zanoktice

U članku o kućnoj nezi noktiju sam pisala o uljanom manikiru, a sada bih volela da detaljnije predstavim različita ulja, masti i još neke hranljive supstance koje imaju blagotvorno dejstvo na nokte i kožu oko noktiju. Da se podsetimo, nokti sadrže prirodne masti (oko 5%) u međućelijskom prostoru i te masti doprinose elastičnosti nokatne ploče, ujedno je impregnirajući. Svako pranje ruku sapunom, svako skidanje laka za nokte bez obzira na vrstu skidača koji koristite uklanja određenu količinu ulja iz gornjih slojeva nokta i ta količina ulja treba da se nadomesti. To je najlakše učiniti uljem za nokte i zanoktice. Ulje za zanoktice osim što hrani nokte i okolnu kožu služi i kao lubrikant prilikom masaže prstiju. Svi, bez obzira na stanje noktiju, mogu i valja da koriste ulje, ali imajte na umu da ulja ne daju instant rezultate već da njihova istrajna upotreba održava kožu i nokte nahranjenima. Redovna upotreba ulja bi trebalo da obezbedi elastičnost noktima i koži, sprečavajući njihovo pucanje, listanje i stvaranje zanoktica. Ulja se koriste jednostavno - dovoljno je jednom dnevno (po mogućnosti posle tuširanja) naneti kap ulja na bazu nokta i utrljati ga u nokat (ako nemate namazan lak) i u kožu oko nokta. Možete naneti i kap na hiponihijum - kožu sa donje strane nokta. Ukoliko su vam nokti suvi ili zanoktice ispucale, svakako bi valjalo da ulja koristite što češće, ali najvažnije je da ih koristite uporno.

I have covered oil manicure in the article on at home manicure, but I'd love to talk a bit more about oils and other nourishing substances that have beneficial effects for nails and surrounding skin. Just to review, nails contain natural oils (about 5%) located in between nail cells and those oils add flexibility and protection from water. Every time you use soap to wash your hands or use nail polish remover (both acetone and non-acetone based) remove some of those oils from the upper layers of nails and that amount of oil should be replenished. The easiest way to do it is by using cuticle oil. In addition to nourishing nails and surrounding skin, cuticle oil act as lubricant during finger massage. Everybody, regardless of type and state of nails, can and should use oils. Keep in mind that oils don't act instantaneously, but their constant use will keep skin and nails nourished. Regular use of oils should give flexibility to nails and keep your skin supple, preventing splits, peels and breaks in nails and hangnails. Oils are easy to use - just put a drop to the base of each nail once per day (preferably after shower) and massage it into the nail (if you don't have polish on) and the surrounding skin. You can put a drop to the undersides of nails as well. If you have very dry nails or cracked cuticles you should certainly use cuticle oils as often as possible, but the most importantly you should use them persistently.



Za nokte i zanoktice treba birati ulja koja imaju visoku moć prodiranja, poput jojobinog, avokadovog ili ulja koštice grožđa. Treba izbegavati ulja za masažu, ulja za bebe i mineralna ulja sama po sebi jer ona teško prodiru u kožu. Kombinacija prodirućih i mineralnih ulja nije loš izbor jer će prodiruće ulje nahraniti nokat/kožu, a mineralno ulje će ga zadržati u tkivu. Ako kupujete gotovu mešavinu gledajte da neko od prodirućih ulja stoji na prvom mestu u listi sastojaka. Sva ova ulja se mogu nabaviti i pojedinačno, što vam ostavlja mogućnost da sami napravite mešavinu koja vam odgovara. Naravno, tražite što je čistije moguće ulje, devičansko, hladno ceđeno. Gotove mešavine se prodaju u različitim pakovanjima - u vidu olovke, u bočicama sa četkicom poput laka za nokte, sa pipetom, sa četkicom kao za sjaj za usne ili u bočicama kao za kapi za nos sa kapaljkom. Meni su se sva ova pakovanja, svi ovi načini nanošenja ulja pokazali jednako učinkovitima. Ako uzimate pakovanje sa četkicom ili kapaljkom nemojte stavljati više od jedne kapi po prstu jer ćete u suprotnom završiti sa veoma masnim prstima. Većina ulja koja se nalaze u mešavinama se veoma lako upija i duboko prodire i ako ih koristite redovno nema potrebe da odjednom stavljate veće količine. Moram reći da otkad sam počela ovako da nanosim ulje umesto da nacapam ceo nokat, ulja koristim češće i radije i zapravo ponovo vidim njihovo dejstvo.

For nails and cuticles you should choose penetrative oils like jojoba, avocado or grapeseed oils and avoid massage oils, baby oils and mineral oils per se as they tend not to sink into skin easily. Combination of penetrating and mineral oils is not a bad idea because the former one will nourish and hydrate skin/nail and the latter will seal that moisture in. If you are buying a premade oil mixture make sure that penetrating oil is at the top of the ingredients list. All those oils can be bought individually, which gives you the chance to make your own mix according to your needs. Naturally, look for the purest possible, extra virgin, cold pressed oil. Ready made cuticle oils are sold in different packages - as pens, in polish bottles with brush or pipette, with brush like the one in lip gloss or in eye drops bottles with dropper. I have found all of these packagings, all these delivery systems equal. If you do get one with brush or dropper try not to put more than a drop per finger. Otherwise you will end up with very greasy fingertips. Most of these oils is easily absorbed and if you use them regularly you won't need to use more than drop per nail. I have to say that since I've stopped drenching my cuticles in oil and started to use only a tiny amount I use cuticle oils more often, more gladly and I actually see them work again.

jojobino i avokadovo ulje iz radionice koja se bavi izradom proizvoda od ulja
jojoba and avocado oils from workshop that manufactures different oil-based products

Jojobino ulje (Simmondsia chinensis) važi za najbolje bazno ulje za negu zanoktica (i generalno kože) jer dosta podseća na naš prirodan sebum. Lako prodire u tkivo, a sa sobom može poneti i druge hranljive ili negujuće sastojke. Sadrži vitamin E. Deluje protivupalno. Ima i antifungalno dejstvo te ga možete koristiti kao deo tretmana ukoliko imate gljivično oboljenje noktiju. Može se koristiti samo ili u kombinaciji sa drugim uljima.

Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis) is said to be the best oil for cuticle care (for skin in general) because it resembles our natural sebum. It penetrates nail and skin easily and can carry other nourishing substances deep into tissue. It contains vitamin E. It acts anti inflammatory. It also has some antifungal properties so you can use it as part of your treatment if you have nail fungus. It can be used on its own or with other oils.

Avokadovo ulje (Persea americana) je još jedno lagano noseće ulje. Ima visoku prodornu moć i brzo se apsorbuje. Sadrži vitamine A, D i E i pomaže u apsorpciji hranljivih materija. Ima smirujuće, protivupalno dejstvo. Poput jojobinog ulja može se koristiti samo ili u kombinaciji sa drugim uljima ili dodatnim nutrijentima.

Avocado oil (Persea americana) is another light carrier oil. It is deeply penetrative and easily absorbed. It contains vitamins A, D and E and aids in nutrient absorption. It has soothing and anti inflammatory properties. Like jojoba oil you can use it on its own or with other oils or added nutrients.

Ulje koštica grožđa (Vitus vinifera) je jedno od najlakših nosećih ulja. Lako se upija. Sadrži velike količine linolne kiseline, koja ima protivupalno dejstvo. Takođe sadrži i male količine vitamina E. Nekomedogeno je, ali može izazvati alergijsku reakciju tako da pre upotrebe treba da budete sigurni da niste alergični na ovo ulje.

Grapeseed oil (Vitus vinifera) is one of the lightest carrier oils. It is very easily absorbed. It contains large quantities of linoleic acid, which acts anti inflammatory. It also contains small amounts of vitamin E. It is non comedogenic, but it can trigger allergic reaction so make sure you are not allergic to it before you try it.

ova gotova ulja sadrže mnoga negujuća ulja, sa prodirućim uljima na vrhu liste sastojaka
these ready-made cuticle oils contain many nourishing oils with penetrating oils at the tops of their ingredients lists

Bademovo ulje (Prunus amygdalus) je nešto teže noseće ulje zbog svojih krupnijih čestica. Lako se razmazuje, ali uglavnom ostaje u gornjim slojevima kože te ga valja kombinovati sa nekim lakšim uljem. Sadrži velike količine vitamina A i E i manje količine vitamina B1, B2 i B6. Ovo hranljivo ulje se koristi u tretiranju iritirane, osetljive i oštećene kože.

Almond oil (Prunus amygdalus) is somewhat heavier carrier oil due to its larger molecular structure. It is easily spreadable, but mostly stays in upper layers of skin so it is best combined with some lighter oil. It contains large quantities of vitamins A and E and lesser amounts of vitamins B1, B2 and B6. This nourishing oil is used to treat irritated, sensitive and damaged skin.

Ricinusovo ulje (Ricinus communis) je humektant, dakle pravi ovlaživač. Koristi se za tretiranje veoma suve kože i stoga je dobar izbor za zimsku negu zanoktica. Gušće je od prethodno nabrojanih ulja i valja ga kombinovati sa nekim lakšim uljem ukoliko ne volite osećaj masnoće na rukama.

Castor oil (Ricinus communis) is a humectant, a true moisturiser. It is used for treating very dry skin and it is a good choice for winter cuticle care. It is thicker than previously mentioned oils and it should be used with a lighter oil if you don't like your nails to be greasy.

Maslinovo ulje (Olea europaea) je gusto noseće ulje koje deluje kao okluziv. Sadrži vitamine A, B, C, D i E, kao i gvožđe. Zbog prepoznatljivog mirisa radije ga koristim za kupku za nokte nego kao ulje za zanoktice. Možete mu dodati limunov sok ili ulje limuna za izbeljivanje noktiju.

Olive oil (Olea europaea) is a thick carrier oil that acts as an occlusive. It contains vitamins A, B, C, D & E, as well as iron. Because of its characteristic smell I use it for soaks instead of as cuticle oil. You can add lemon juice or lemon oil for nail whitening.

Suncokretovo ulje (Helianthus annuus) je emolijens koji sadrži velike količine vitamina A, D i E. U pitanju je lagano noseće ulje koje se brzo upija. Zbog relativno niske cene u poređenju sa drugim uljima predstavlja najpopularniji izbor za uljne kupke.

Sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus) is an emollient that contains large quantities of vitamins A, D and E. This is a light carrier oil that gets easily absorbed. Since it is inexpensive compared to other oils it represents the most popular choice for warm oil soaks.

Susamovo ulje (Sesamum indicum) je prodiruće noseće ulje koje sadrži vitamin E. Ima antibakterijska i antifungalna svojstva i može se koristiti u tretiranju manjih povreda na koži.

Sesame oil (Sesamum indicum) is penetrating carrier oil that contains vitamin E. It has antibacterial and antifungal properties and can be used to treat lesser skin lesions.

ova gotova ulja nemaju prodiruće ulje na prvom mestu, ali sadrže dosta različitih ulja
these ready-made cuticle oils don't have a penetrating oil as #1 ingredient, but they do contain many different oils

Za negu noktiju i zanoktica se osim ovih ulja, koja obično čine osnovu uljnih mešavina za zanoktice, koriste i druga ulja, kao i druge supstance koje uz pomoć baznih ulja neguju nokte i kožu. Slični sastojci se koriste u kremama za negu noktiju te ću spomenuti i neke sastojke tipične za ovaj oblik proizvoda. Obratite pažnju i na kreme za suvu/ispucalu kožu kao i na balzame za usne koje imate kod kuće. Moguće je da sadrže više ovih korisnih sastojaka te ih uzmite u obzir i za negu zanoktica, posebno sada kada je vreme hladnije i kada treba pojačati celokupnu negu kože, uključujući i zanoktice.

Along with aforementioned oils, that usually present a base for cuticle oils, other oils can be used too, as well as some other nourishing substances that those base oils carry deeper into skin. Similar ingredients can be found in nail and cuticle creams so I shall mention several ingredients that are typical for that sort of product. Pay close attention to creams for extremely dry or cracked skin and lip balms you have at home. They may contain many of these substances and can be used for cuticle care, especially now that the weather is colder and that our skin, including cuticles, needs more TLC.

Kokosovo ulje (Cocos nucifera) je bazno ulje koje se često koristi za negu kose, ali deluje povoljno i na nokte i kožu oko noktiju. Ovo ulje je čvrsto na sobnoj temperaturi, a topi se na ruci. Verovatnije je da ćete ga naći u buterima i kremama za nokte nego u uljima za zanoktice. Kokosovo ulje možete koristiti u kupkama za nokte.

Coconut oil (Cocos nucifera) is base oil that is often used for hair care, but it has beneficial effect on nails and skin. This oil is firm at room temperature and turns into liquid at body temperature. It is more probable you'd find it in butters and nail creams instead of cuticle oil mixtures. You can use it for oil soaks.

Pirinčano ulje (Oryza sativa) sadrži antioksidans γ-oryzanol i visoku količinu vitamina E. Pomaže mikroeksfolijaciju kože. Često se koristi u kupovnim uljima za zanoktice.

Rice bran oil (Oryza sativa) contains antioxidant γ-oryzanol and large quantities of vitamin E. It helps with skin micro exfoliation. It is often part of ready-made cuticle oils.

Arganovo ulje (Argania spinosa) je vlažeće ulje koje se lako apsorbuje. Sadrži velike količine vitamina E. Koristi se za jačanje noktiju.

Argan oil (Argania spinosa) is an easily absorbed hydrating oil. It contains large quantities of vitamin E. It is used as a nail strengthener.

Limunovo ulje (C. limon) je esencijalno ulje koje izbeljuje fleke na koži, a i na noktima. Takođe skuplja pore, zateže kožu te hiponihijum čini manje izloženim spoljnim uticajima, istovremeno stvarajući utisak nešto duže nokatne ploče. Ima i antibakterijsko dejstvo.

Lemon oil (C. limon) is essential oil that can whiten spots on skin as well as on nails. It acts as an astringent, tightens the skin making hyponychium less exposed, making nail bed look a tad longer at the same time. It has antibacterial properties as well.

i buteri za usne sadrže negujuća ulja
lip balms can also containt nourishing oils

Aloja vera (Aloe vera) nije ulje (mada postoji i alojino ulje), ali ekstrakt aloje sadrži mnoge vitamine, minerale, enzime i amino kiseline. Ubrzava oporavak oštećene kože, posebno opekotina. Često se dodaje kremama i nekim uljima za zanoktice.

Aloe Vera is not an oil (although there is aloe oil), but aloe extract contains many vitamins, minerals, enzymes and amino acids. It improves skin healing processes, especially in burns. It is often added to creams and some cuticle oils.

Glicerin je humektant koji se nekim uljima za zanoktice dodaje kako bi privukao vlagu iz okoline koju bi okluzivno ulje onda zadržalo u koži. Većina krema za ruke ga sadrži tako da ukoliko nemate ulje pri ruci možete glicerinsku kremu umasirati u zanoktice.

Glycerin is a humectant that is sometimes added to cuticle oils in order to attract moisture from the air. Then occlusive oil can seal that moisture in skin. Most hand creams contain glycerin so you can massage them into cuticles if you don't have a cuticle oil at hand.

Pantenol je humektant i emolijens koji pomaže da druge supstance prodru dublje u kožu. Ima protivupalno dejstvo i ubrzava zarastanje rana na koži.

Panthenol is a humectant and an emollient that helps other nourishing substances penetrate into skin. It has anti inflammatory properties and it helps healing.

Urea je prirodni humektant i keratolitik koji se nalazi u spoljnom sloju kože. Može se uneti topikalno za rehidraciju suve kože koja se ljuspa i svrbi te je dobra i za veoma suve zanoktice. Ne utiče na zdrav nokat, ali može pomoći u debridmanu obolelog nokatnog tkiva.

Urea is naturally occuring humectant and keratolytic found in outer layers of skin. It can be applied topically in order to rehydrate very dry, scaly and itchy skin so it is very good for parched cuticles. It has no effect on healthy nails, but it can be used for debridement of diseased portions of nail.

Alantoin je još jedan sastojak koji se često nalazi u kremama za ruke (posebno za veoma suvu kožu) i zanoktice. Ima keratolitičko i hidrirajuće dejstvo, a oba su veoma poželjna u nezi zanoktica.

Allantoin is another common ingredient in hand and cuticle creams (especially in creams for very dry skin). It has keratolytic and moisturising properties, both of which are desirable in cuticle care.

Balzami za usne i kreme za zanoktice neretko imaju veoma sličan sastav. Balzami za usne se sigurno mogu koristiti na zanokticama, ali kreme za nokte se ne mogu uvek koristiti umesto balzama za usne.
Lip balms and nail &cuticle creams often have very similar ingredients. Lip balms can be used on cuticles, but not all cuticle cream can be used on lips.

Mineralno ulje (paraffinum liquidum) je okluziv, što znači da stvara barijeru između kože i okoline. Samo po sebi ima slabo hranljivo ili vlažeće dejstvo, ali omekšava kožu. Treba ga kombinovati sa humektantima. Valja ga imati u sredstvu za negu zanoktica jer će zadržati hranljive sastojke u koži, ali gledajte da ne bude glavni sastojak. Isto važi za vazelin (petrolatum) u kremama.

Mineral oil (paraffinum liquidum) is an occlusive, which means it creates a barrier between the skin and adjacencies. It has minimal nourishing or hydrating value, but it does soften the skin. It should be combined with humectants. It is a good ingredient in cuticle oils because it keeps nutrients form oil in skin, but try to find mixtures that don't have mineral oil as its main ingredient. The same goes for petroleum jelly (petrolatum).

Ši buter (Butyrospermum parkii) deluje kao emolijens i humektant. Sadrži vitamine A i E. Koristi se za intenzivnu negu kože, kao i u tretiranju nekih kožnih oboljenja poput psorijaze i ekcema. Balzami za usne i krema za nokte i zanoktice ga često sadrže.

Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) acts as emollient and humectant. It contains vitamins A and E. It is used for intensive skin care as well as in treatments of some skin disorders such as psoriasis and eczema. It is often found in lip balms and nail and cuticle creams.

Lanolin je vuneni vosak koji se koristi u tretiranju veoma isušene i oštećene kože. Ima hidrirajuće svojstvo i produženo dejstvo kao emolijens. Može se koristiti sam ili u kombinaciji sa drugim hranljivim ili hidrirajućim supstancama.

Lanolin is wool wax, used in treatments for very dry and damaged skin. It has hydrating properties and prolonged effect as an emollient. It can be used on its own or with other nourishing or hydrating substances.

Pčelinji vosak (Cera alba) je okluziv i mora se kombinovati sa humektantima za pravu negu zanoktica. Nećete ga naći u uljima za nokte, ali je osnova moje omiljene Hemel kreme za nokte i zanoktice, kao i nekih balzama za usne koje koristim i za zanoktice ako mi je hitno potrebno da ih namažem, a nemam neko ulje pri ruci. Dovoljno je naneti ga na mokru kožu.

Beeswax (Cera alba) is an occlusive and it should be combined with humectants for true cuticle care. You won't find it in cuticle oils, but it is one of main ingredients of my favourite Hemel nail and cuticle cream, as well as some lip balms I use on my cuticles if I need immediate hydration and I don't have oil nearby. All you need to do is apply it on wet skin.