Sređivanje noktiju u kućnoj radinosti

Posebnost svakog čoveka, svakog nokta izazivali su u meni zadršku da napišem opšti "vodič" za kućno sređivanje noktiju, ali bila sam lepo zamoljena da to ipak učinim da nisam mogla da odbijem. Plašim se da se kod nas nega noktiju suviše generalizuje i da se većina ljudi ne trudi da ustanovi kakve nokte imaju, posebno ako imaju i neke zdravstvene probleme. Isto se odnosi na generalno održavanje noktiju. Verujem da će većina vas moći među mojim predlzima da nađe metod sređivanja noktiju koji im odgovara. Imajte na umu da je ovde reč o sređivanju noktiju kod kuće, ne u salonu, i da se zato držim jednostavnih elemenata koje svako može sam da sprovede, ali zabavnije je ako organizujete manikir veče sa drugaricama.

Individuality of every person, every nail have kept me from doing a general "guide" through at home manicure, but I was asked nicely to do it anyway so I couldn't say no. I fear nail care is taken too lightly and people usually don't even try to find out what type of nails they have, especially if they also have some medical conditions. The same goes for regular nail care. I believe most of you will be able to find nail care routine that will fit you among my suggestions. Keep in mind that what I'm writing about is at home manicure, not salon nail care, and that is why I'm trying to keep it simple so that anyone can do this themselves, but it is more fun if you organise a pampering evening with friends.

vreme je za skraćivanje noktiju i intenzivnu negu zanoktica

Grubo gledano, postoje tri vrste manikira - suvi, vodeni i uljani. Valja prvo odlučiti koji vam od ova tri metoda odgovara pre nego što pređete na sam manikir. Suvi manikir je zgodan za sve tipove noktiju, a posebno za momente kada nemate mnogo vremena za sređivanje ili vam nije potrebno dodatno omekšavanje zanoktica. Vodeni manikir je dobar za debele, čvrste, hidrirane nokte ili za uporne zanoktice kojima je potrebno dosta omekšavanja. Uljani manikir je posebno dobar za isušene i/ili tanke nokte, kao i za momente kada želite da pružite sebi dodatnu negu (recimo zimi).

Roughly speaking, there are three types of manicure - dry, water and warm oil. You should first see which one of these suits you best. Dry manicure is good for all types of nails, especially if you don't have much time for entire manicure routine or if you don't need additional cuticle softening. Water manicure is good if you have thick, firm, hydrated nails or if you have cuticle overgrowth that needs softening. Warm oil manicure is especially beneficial for dry and/or thin nails, as well as for moments when you want to give more TLC to your nails (for instance at winter).

Suvi manikir najprostije gledano podrazumeva oblikovanje noktiju, sređivanje zanoktica po potrebi, lakiranje noktiju, stavljanje ulja za zanoktice i kreme za ruke. Za otvaranje pora, kako bi ulje i krema mogli da dublje prodru, može se upotrebiti ugrejan peškir. Suvi manikir može uključiti i piling koji će biti uklonjen vlažnim peškirom ili običnim pranjem ruku. Važno je samo da se ruke i nokti ne natapaju u toploj tečnosti.

Dry manicure at its simplest consists of taking down the length/shaping nails, cuticle removal if necessary, painting nails, cuticle oil and hand cream. You can use warm towels to open up pores in order for cuticle oil and hand cream to penetrate deeper into your skin. You can also exfoliate dead skin and wipe off scrub with wet towel or just regular hand wash. What is important is that you don't soak your hands and nails in warm liquid.

dugo i često izlaganje vodi može dovesti do raslojavanja i pucanja nokta
long and frequent exposure to water can cause splits and cracks

Vodeni manikir obično podrazumeva isto što i suvi, ali uz kupku za šake na samom početku. Topla kupka je dobra za omekšavanje zanoktica, odmašćivanje nokta i otvaranje pora, ali ima i svoje mane. Nokat sadrži oko 15% vode, koja je raspoređena između slojeva nokta. Ona služi kao lubrikant koji olakšava da ti slojevi klize jedni preko drugih kako se nokat savija. Zato su nokti kojima manjka vlaga kruti i krti, a mokri nokti (recimo posle tuširanja) veoma fleksibilni. Maksimalni procenat vode koju nokat može da primi je oko 30%, ali sva ta voda zauzima mesto između slojeva nokatne ploče i razdvaja ih. Nokat koji se "napije" vode menja oblik dok sav taj višak vode ne ispari iz njega. Kupanje, pranje kose, ručno pranje sudova i veša bez rukavica i drugo izlaganje vodi na više od dva-tri minuta tako predstavlja stalan stres za prirodne nokte. Tanki i slabi nokti posebno treba da budu pošteđeni čestog namakanja noktiju jer mogu početi da se listaju ili da se lome na raslojenim mestima. Zbog promena oblika nokta posle kupke ne preporučujem skraćivanje noktiju posle kupke već pre nje.

Water manicure usually consists of the same elements as dry manicure, but with a hand soak at the beginning. Warm soak is good for cuticle softening, degreasing the nail plate and for pore opening, but it also has some downsides. Nail contains about 15% of water, which is mostly distributed between the layers of nail plate. It acts as lubricant that allows nail cells to glide easily as the nail bends. This is why nails that lack moisture are rigid and brittle, and wet nails (after a bath, for instance) are very flexible. The maximum amount of water nail plate can absorb is about 30%, but all this water takes up space between nail plate layers, pushing them apart. Nail that is fully saturated with water changes shape until all that extra water evaporates. Taking a shower, washing hair, washing dishes or doing laundry by hand without wearing protective gloves as well as other activities that require that your hands be in water for more than two or three minutes pose as constant stress for natural nails. Thin and weak nails should particularly be spared from constant soaking because it can lead to nail peeling or splitting at points of stratification. Because nails change shape after a soak I advise against shortening/shaping them after a soak.

Uljani manikir umesto klasične kupke uključuje potapanje noktiju u toplo ulje. Nokti sadrže prirodne masti, koje se nalaze između ćelija nokatne ploče. Mada se i voda i ulja kroz nokat kreću difuzijom, tj. prelaskom iz prostora veće koncentracije u prostor manje koncentracije, oni to čine na različite načine. Dok se voda često kreće kroz ćelije, ulja se kreću između ćelija, što znači da kroz nokat putuju sporije od vode. Koncentracija ulja u noktu je drastično niža od koncentracije vode (oko 5%), ali promena koncentracije ulja ne predstavljaju toliki šok za nokat i veće količine ulja neće oštetiti nokat. Za razliku od vode ulja ne isparavaju iz nokta, a dehidracijom nokta se uklanjaju ulja samo iz viših slojeva, ali ne i iz nižih. Upornom upotrebom ulja će se njegova koncentracija u celom noktu povećati, a time će se i nokat donekle impregnirati i zaštititi od akumulacije preterane količine vode. Za nokte su najbolja ulja jojobe, masline i avokada, kao i bademovo i ricinusovo ulje.

Oil manicure uses warm oil soak instead of water soak. Nails contain natural oils in between nail plate cells. While both water and oil move through nail by diffusion, i. e. moving from place of higher concentration to place of lower concentration, they do it in different manner. Water often moves through nail plate cells, but oils move between them, which means they move more slowly than water through nail plate. Amount of oils in nail plate is drastically lower than that of water (about 5%), but the change in the amount of oil in nail plate doesn't present as strong a shock for nail and larger concentration of oil won't damage nail plate. Unlike water oils don't evaporate from nails and dehydration will only remove oils from top layers of nail. Constant use of oils will increase the amount of moisture in the entire nail at the same time providing protection from water. The best oils for nails are jojoba, olive and avocado oils as well as almond and castor oil.

Jeste li odlučili koji manikir vam najviše odgovara? Sada možemo preći na sam proces sređivanja noktiju.

Have you chosen the type of manicure that would suit you best? Now we can take a look at the manicure process.

nokte sam skratila Trind staklenom turpijom, koja ima i zaštitnu kutiju
I have used Trind glass file to shorten my nails

1. Prvi korak mislim da uvek treba da bude skraćivanje i oblikovanje noktiju ukoliko za time imate potrebe. Ovaj proces se nadam da sam dovoljno objasnila u tekstu o alatu za oblikovanje i skraćivanje noktiju. Ukratko, radi se na suvo. Ne potapajte nokte u toplu kupku i nemojte se tuširati, prati kosu ili sudove pre nego što uzmete da skraćujete nokte. Za svaki minut koji su vam ruke provele u toploj vodi treba da prođe otprilike jedan sat da vam se nokti vrate u prirodno stanje. Ukoliko ste natopili nokte, namažite neko hidrirajuće sredstvo i čekajte. Nokti se skraćuju bilo kratkim rezovima oštrim sečivom bilo turpijom odgovarajuće finoće (ne niže granulacije od 180). Oblikuju se finijim turpijama (granulacija 220 i više), laganim pokretima od ivice ka sredini nokta. Slobodnu ivicu valja zapečtiti polirkom. Nokte možete skraćivati pre nego što skinete lak za nokte ili kada ste lak već skinuli, kako je vama zgodnije.

1. I think the first step should always be shortening and shaping your nails if you need either. I hope I have explained how to shape your nails in my article on implements for shortening and shaping nails. In short, you should do it on dry nails. Don't soak your nails and don't wash your hair, take shower or do the dishes right before. It takes about an hour per minute you have kept your hands in warm water for your nails to revert to their normal state. If you have soaked your nails you should apply some moisturiser and wait. You should use short cuts to cut your nails or you can file them using right grit file (not lower than 180). You can shape them with finer files (220 and higher grit), using light motions from one corner of the nail towards centre. Free edge should be sealed with polishing block. You can shorten/shape your nails with your nail polish on if you find it more convenient.

2a. Ukoliko ste odabrali suvi manikir, pređite na 3. korak.

2a. If you have chosen dry manicure, skip to step 3.

2b. Ako radite vodeni manikir pripremite sebi mlaku, nikako vruću, kupku. Možete koristiti običan tečni sapun, klasičnu kupku za telo ili posebno sredstvo za manikir. Potopite šake u kupku na nekoliko minuta kako bi zanoktice omekšale i kako bi se pore otvorile i koža lakše upila kremu, losion ili ulje koje želite da upotrebite. Ovo je dobra prilika da mekom četkicom za nokte ili starom četkicom za zube istrljate nokte i zanoktice ili da uradite piling (iz domaće radinosti ili kupovni). Imajte suv peškir pri ruci, a nije loše da jedan podmetnete i pod čanče sa vodom kako biste zaštitili površinu od prskanja.

2b. If you are doing water manicure, prepare lukewarm, not hot, soak. You can use regular liquid soap, body wash or manicure soak. Keep you hands in water for several minutes in order to soften the cuticle and to open up the pores and prepare the skin for cream, lotion or oil you may want to use. This is a good moment to use soft manicure brush or old toothbrush and scrub nails and surrounding skin or to use an actual hand scrub (hand made or ready-made). Do have a dry towel at hand and you can put one beneath the bowl in order to protect the surface from dripping.

2c. Za uljanu kupku sipajte odabrano ulje u posudu koja se lako može ugrejati, a tu posudu stavite u veću činiju sa vrućom vodom. Voda će ugrejati ulje u činijici. U osnovno ulje možete dodati esencijalna ulja u skladu sa svojim potrebama, ali se pre nego što to učinite informišite koja ulja i u kojoj količini smete da koristite. Ovo posebno važi za trudnice i dojilje. Možete dodati i limunov sok za izbeljivanje noktiju. Posle nekoliko minuta namakanja utrljajte ulje u nokte i kožu okolo. Za intenzivniju negu možete da navučete kese na ruke i rukavice preko kese na barem petnaestak minuta. Osim peškira koji savetujem da podmetnete pod činiju sa uljem treba da imate i papirne ubruse ili salvete da pokupite višak ulja sa ruku.

2c. To do a warm oil soak pour oil in a bowl that can easily be heated and place the bowl in larger dish with hot water. Water should warm up the oil in your bowl. You can add essential oils in your base oil depending on your needs, but do check beforehand which oils and how much of them you can use. This is especially important for pregnant women and women who are breastfeeding. You can add lemon juice to the soak, for whitening. Soak your hands for several minutes, then massage oil into your nails and cuticles. For intensive care you can put your hands in plastic bags and mittens for at least fifteen minutes. Put a towel underneath the bowl and keep paper towels close by to remove excessive oil from your hands.

3. Sledeći korak je uklanjanje zanoktica. Nadam se da sam vam i sređivanje zanoktica približila u tekstu o zanokticama. Uklanja se samo mrtvo ili zacepljeno tkivo. Pratite uputstvo na preparatu koji ste odabrali i nemojte ga držati duže od preporučenog vremena. Uklonite zanoktice drvenim štapićem i sredstvo dobro operite sa noktiju. Ukoliko ne koristite sredstvo za uklanjanje zanoktica, a omekšali ste kožu kupkom možete peškirom blago istrljati eponihijum kako biste uklonili sasušenu kožu. Ovo možete raditi posle svakog tuširanja. Paralelno sa uklanjanjem zanoktica ja volim da stavim i masku za šake. I dalje koristim BCL ManiSation masku na bazi gline jer mi dubinski hrani kožu. Sigurno postoji i mnoštvo recepata za domaće maske i pakovanja za šake, a mnogi proizvođači imaju svoje gotove preparate za ovu svrhu.

3. Next step is cuticle removal. I hope I have explained well enough how you should take care of your cuticles in my article about cuticles. You should only remove dead or split tissue. Follow instructions for your chosen cuticle remover and don't keep it on your skin/nails for longer than advised. Scrape cuticles off with wooden stick and wash the remover off thoroughly. If you don't use cuticle remover you can use terry cloth to rub off dead skin off your eponychium. You can do this regularly after shower. I like to do a hand mask along with cuticle removal. I still use BCL ManiSation clay hand mask because it provides good nourishment for my skin. I am sure there are many home made hand mask recipes out there and many manufacturers have ready-made products.

u poslednje vreme intenzivno koristim CND SolarOil
lately I've been persistently using CND SolarOil

4. Namažite kremu za ruke i dobro je utrljajte u ruke i kožu oko noktiju. Ako niste planirali da mažete nokte, možete naneti deblji sloj kreme, staviti ulje za zanoktice, navući pamučne rukavice i prespavati. Ujutro će vam koža biti meka i nahranjena. Birajte kreme koje sadrže više humektanata, a manje okluziva.

4. Apply hand cream and massage it thoroughly into your hands and skin around your nails. If you haven't planned to paint your nails you can apply a thicker coat of hand cream, put on cotton gloves and go to bed. Your skin will be soft and nourished in the morning. Chose creams that contain more humectants and less occlusives.

posle kućnog manikira
after at home manicure

5. Ako ste planirali da mažete nokte, sada to učinite. Preskočite lakiranje ukoliko ste radili vodeni manikir i dajte noktima dovoljno vremena da poprime svoj normalan oblik. U suprotnom rizikujete da lak počne brzo da vam se krza. Pre lakiranja odmastite površinu noktiju alkoholom ili acetonom. Nanesite bazu, lak i nadlak, pazeći da svakim slojem zatvorite i slobodnu ivicu nokta i vodeći računa da ne umažete kožu. Upotrebite kapi za brzo sušenje laka ukoliko je potrebno. Nanesite ulje, serum ili kremu koju koristite za zanoktice, pazeći da ne pokvarite lak. I gotovo.

5. If you wanted to paint your nails now is the time to do it. Skip it if you have done water manicure and let your nails revert to their natural shape before you apply polish. Otherwise you risk your nail polish starting to chip really soon. You should degrease/dehydrate nail plate before you apply nail polish. Use rubbing alcohol or acetone. Apply base coat, polish and top coat, making sure to cover free edge with every layer and taking care not to get product on your skin. Use drying drops if you need. Put your favourite cuticle oil, cream or serum trying not to mess up your manicure. You're done.